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A Cornish Walk: A Simple Tourist Activity, But An Absolute Must For An English Holiday
Cornwall has always been a favourite holiday destination and its
dramatic coastline, picturesque villages, vibrant culture and
sumptuous cuisine. For those visitors who have travelled to the
region, the benefits of a Cornish holiday need no explaining,
but for our international friends, who have yet to explore
outside of London, a visit to Cornwall will give you a very
different taste of English life. In this article, I describe one
of my favourite walks in Cornwall and thoroughly recommend it to
anyone visiting the area.
Parts of the walk between St Agnes and the Jericho Valley have
been trodden so often by my sturdy boots, that they practically
know their own way. It's one of my favourite stretches of
coastal path for its spectacular views across the turquoise
waters to the huge stretch of beach at Penhale; the ever-present
tang of salt hanging in the air; the dramatic cliffs bordered
with a mosaic of gorse, heather and thrift; plus it conveniently
links my house with the beach, the pub and my favourite seaside
restaurant.
St Agnes was once a busy centre of mining activity, the relics
of which are dotted all around this walk. Today it is still a
very community-minded village with a friendly population boosted
during the summer by the visitors attracted by the village's
charming unspoilt character, its beautiful coastline and popular
beach. The village is well equipped for walkers, with some
beautiful, quintessentially English cottages and hotels ( http://www.cornwalltoday.co.uk/Ac
commodation/Bed+and+Breakfast/Newquay+and+Perranporth.aspx
), and some superb restaurants which take advantage of
Cornwall's fantastic local produce.
On this walk you'll first head southwards on the coast path up a
fairly steep climb away from the picturesque Trevaunance Cove.
Just above the beach if you peer down at low tide you'll see the
scattered stones of the former harbour walls, deposited when
storms swept it away in 1915/16. At a higher tide with a gentle
swell you may see one or two of the resident seals putting in an
appearance.
Continuing along the coast path you'll be rewarded with amazing
views - careful though, some of the drops are quite sheer in
places. You'll pass a number of capped mine shafts and a couple
of benches where you can enjoy the view of Bawden Rocks, also
known as Man and His Man. Every summer daring swimmers from the
village swim the mile out to this rock and back.
After about half a mile along the coast path you head inland
and up towards the Beacon, the 192 metre high hill that
overlooks St Agnes. Legend has it that a giant called Bolster
could stand with one foot on The Beacon and the other on Carn
Brea six miles away. If you fancy a detour then trek up it for
some fantastic views from Padstow in the north, to the clay
country and
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south to St Ives.
Otherwise the route skirts the bottom of the Beacon, and then
follows a path to St Agnes village. Here locals bustling about
their day-to-day business will be brushing shoulders with
day-trippers and holiday makers. Stop for a browse around some
of the fascinating arts and crafts galleries, or pause for a
coffee outside the St Agnes Hotel. If you feel like staying
overnight, there is some lovely holiday accommodation in the
area, as well as a very high standard of local pubs and
restaurants. ( http://www.cornwalltoday.co.uk/Places/Restaura
nts/Newquay+and+Perranporth.aspx )
Next you'll see the quirky row of sea captain's cottages known
as Stippy-Stappy, then follow the road for a short time before
you descend off left into Trevellas Combe. Following a clear
trickling stream through woodland, you'll pass the isolated
Jericho Cottage, once owned by renowned Cornish artist John
Opie. Near here, we got a fright when a grass snake slithered
across the path in front of us.
You emerge out of the valley at Blue Hills Tin Streams, where
you can see a working water wheel and tin smelting in the
traditional way. Then perhaps stop at Trevellas beach for a
paddle. Head up the steep hill to the left of the beach. It's a
toughie this one, but there's a strategically placed bench half
way up! At Easter this area is buzzing with an array of classic
cars racing their way around a track.
You can get round this walk in a speedy two and half hours, but
I think you should allow about four. In that time you'll have
journeyed through centuries of life in this colourful part of
Cornwall and should go home with a real taste of how this
friendly community has evolved in that time.
* Distance: 4.5miles
* Grade: Moderate
* Maps: OS Landranger 203, reference 721 515. Walk taken from
Classic Walks Cornwall 1 ( published by Cornwall & Devon Media,
£5.99)
* Parking: Leave your car at the car park in Trevaunance Cove,
St Agnes
* Refreshments: St Agnes Hotel, for coffees and pub food
opposite the church; Driftwood Spars for a pint in their beer
garden just a few metres from the beach.
* Distractions: Galleries and shops in St Agnes village; Blue
Hills Tin Streams, St Agnes, 01872 553341
Other walks in the area: http://www.cornwalltoday.co.uk/Activities/Walking+and+V
iewpoints.aspx
About the author:
Nicky van der Bij is a keen walker and has been promoting
Cornwall for a number of years. Nicky attends local festivals
and reviews restaurants in the region, additionally writing
articles for a number of tourism publications. Web:
http://www.travel-tips.co.uk/ E-mail: info@travel-tips.co.uk
Phone: 01872 247458
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